Now that it's long enough to see without a mirror, I finally upgraded my dreadtail.

Behold: The Utili-Dread!

For those of you who don't know me, my longest dreadlock is at the very base of my skull, and hangs down my spine when loose. It's rather difficult to take a photo of my own back, and I know the pictures are horrible quality, so (someday) I'll update with better pictures and more examples of how I use my homegrown lanyard.

What I did:

I made an eye in my dreadlock by whipping it--using half-hitches--for about two inches with #8 nylon twine. I then folded that section around two small keyrings, and whipped the end down tight. It's not a true splice, but it will more than hold for my purposes. 

Why I did it:

Attatched to the keyrings is a small gate-clip. The pictures show a Photon Freedom attatched to it, but it easily comes off and can be replaced by any small keychain tool. So far I've only really used the light, but soon I intend to try a pen as well. Since my dreadtail previously had an additional nut that I removed to add the clip, the weight is still less than I'm used to, even with the Photon. As you can see in the first picture, I can reach it with ease, so any tool will be completely and quickly accessible once attached.

--What about it smacking me in the face when I move vigorously, getting in the way, or caught on things?

There have been beads and nuts on this dreadlock for years--I'm already used to it. Enough that before any training, coaching, or otherwise energetic physical activity, I tie a knot in the dreadlock to shorten it. (Now I suppose I can clip it to something else as well.) Also, this particular dreadlock was grown with a purpose in mind from the start: it wraps around the rest of my hair as a band to hold everything together, so often it's already out of the way along with the rest.

 

My first obvious purpose for the Photon--beyond just having it--is to be a beacon on my body when I ride my bike at night. Seattle bike law only requires a front white light and a rear red reflector, however, having a back red light, especially a blinking light (which the photon does) is more obvious than a reflector from a distance. After riding in this city for a few years, I'm convinced that the lights raise my chances of being seen significantly. So? Red light on my tail, white light on my neck, and I don't even have to remember to remove them from my bike so they're not stolen.

This is what tacpunk is all about.

:)

I've been using the Buck Hartsook for over a year now as an everyday carry knife. It's tiny, but that's why I like it. It's definitely a light-duty knife, and though some people with larger hands claim it difficult to hold and maneuver, I find it perfect for opening letters and packages, cutting fruit and cheese, shaving and splintering small twigs, cutting stitching, cloth or thick tape, or thin rubber such as bicycle innertube. I have done light prying with it, and it's seen water, salt and fresh, and has faired fine by allowing it to dry out. The blade holds an edge well and is easy to sharpen: it's more than worth the $20 I paid for it.

 

The Hartsook is sold as a neck knife, with a similar version called the Smidgen. Both come with a sheath and a small loop of paracord on the end. Apparently, the first version of sheath does not keep the knife secure; I received the second version. In this version, the knife is held in by a small plastic button that fits into the top lanyard hole in the handle, so it wont just pull free if caught, but is easy to release. I strung mine onto a 20" length of size 24 nylon twine with two overhand knots on either side of the sheath so the knife doesn't slide freely, joining the ends together in a tightened overhand on a bight for the safety of a quick release: an intentional tug on the stopper knots at the two ends renders the knife untied. 

The spine of both knives is textured above the top lanyard hole, as well as over the base of the blade. It provides good purchase for the thumb when grasping the blade, and on the Smidgen, the same texture works perfectly to strike firesteel. The Hartsook seemed to have trouble with it, assumedly due to the oxide coating, so I actually sanded off the coating in that area to fix the problem. The small modification madea huge difference. 

I also wrapped the sheath with size 18 twine because it looks nice, and is always useful to have around. Carrying it around the neck is comfortable and subtle, as it's very light and slim, but can be annoying when jumping or climbing vigorously--especially when inversions come into play--and, when tucked, isn't quick to reach. A favored way is hitch it around a belt loop or drawstring on my pants and let it hang or pocket it. The wrap on the sheath keeps it from scratching my phone, and it's easy to find the twine near my waist to guide the sheath out into my hand if it's not already out. 

 

 

Overall, the Hartsook kicks ass as a tiny fixed blade.

Specs:

• Blade Length: 1 7/8" (4.8 cm) 
• Overall Length: 4 ¼” 
• Blade Material: Black oxide S30V 
• Carry System: Molded nylon sheath 
• Handle Material: S30V skeleton with black oxide coating 
• Weight: 0.5 oz. (w/ sheath +/- 1oz)

<Shazamazon>

This is a travel-type sewing kit that is easy to carry around at all times. Created from an "Altoids Smalls" tin, with the assistance of a number of 3/16" rare earth magnets, the tin will hold itself open and attach to metal surfaces, and the only things to fall from it while open are the two extra buttons. The contents of the kit include:

- 8 needles of varying size

- 25 steel pins

- 6 safety pins of varying size

- 1 steel thimble

- 2 steel spools of approx. 20ft of black nylon upholstery thread each

 

The kit can easily be built in a similar metal tin, larger or smaller, as well as being constructed with varying sizes of magnets. Some other things to consider including in or near a sewing kit:

- Knife/Scissors

- Lighter for melting ends of nylon thread (or paracord)

- Pliers for thick materials sewing

 

Keep away from credit cards!